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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.